Hand Out

How to Introduce a Cat to a Dog

If the cat is the newcomer, they will need to start in a safe room. Find something that motivates the cat as a reward so that you can begin positive reinforcement exercises on either side of a visual barrier such as a baby gate, screen door, French doors, etc.

If the dog is the new family member, he or she should be contained for house-breaking and training purposes. They may have the kitchen and their crate in the beginning, but they should not be allowed to barge in and take over the house, making the cat feel like a prisoner in their once safe home. We only recommend confining the cat to their favorite, safest room of the house if they are incredibly shy and intimidated, and it is in their best interest to have their world made smaller. Otherwise, the cat should have free run and the dog must be contained.

Your cat may feel too intimidated to get to their food bowls, water, and especially litter box. Do not move their litter box! Instead, add resources in places where your cat feels safe. Abrupt change is stressful to cats, and a new dog is stressful enough. Give them more choices and options, not fewer.

Here are a few key tips:

Do not allow your dog to chase, bark at, or pursue your cats in any way. Cats who run get chased because running evokes the prey drive in dogs. This can be a deadly scenario. Dogs pick up their prey and shake it. And while the owners may notice no evidence but saliva on the cat, the cat may be suffering serious internal organ damage that can be fatal. Cuddling and grooming is fine, but dogs and cats should not be allowed to wrestle or rough-house together.

Create vertical space so that your cats can get up and away from the dogs. This is key for the cat’s sanity and sense of security, as well as for their safety should an unsupervised chase ever ensue. Cats take great comfort in being up high. Make sure the dog respects the cat condo; paws off for dogs! This is usually only an issue with toy and agile breeds.
Create feeding stations up high so that the dogs do not scarf down all of the cats’ food. Remember that cats are the most three-dimensionally oriented species we share our homes with, so there are no hard, fast rules about the food dish being on the floor. Bathroom vanities, armoires, and cat condos are all great locations for cat food.
Always offer a separate water dish for cats. They may drink from the dog bowl too, but cats are very finicky about the taste of their water, and dog slobber could taint it enough to prevent them from drinking.
Put a baby gate up to keep the dog out of the litter box. Lift the gate a few inches so that cats can go under or over it. If you have a very small dog, you may have to get more creative, but know that hooded litter boxes are not the solution. Elimination is a vulnerable time for a cat, and hooded boxes can make them feel threatened because they cannot see the dog approaching. Most dogs can also fit their head inside the opening; imagine how scary that would be if you were a cat using the box!
Training your dog to understand the “leave it” and “drop it” commands will allow cats to have toys, food puzzles, and free access to the litter box. Many homes with dogs are void of cat toys because the dog eats or destroys all of the cats’ things. This is extremely unfair. Do not allow this to happen to your once happy cat.
Monitor your cat when your dog is eating. Cats should NOT eat dog food. It is not balanced or made for them and can cause urinary problems.
Contact between a dog and a cat should always be initiated by the cat. Even if the cat gives the dog a warning swat with a paw, the dog should not retaliate. The goal is not for the dog to be injured, but for them to realize that the cat comes equipped with sharp pointy things that should be avoided!

It cannot be stressed enough that supervision is imperative when introducing dogs and cats. Do not leave the dog and cat alone unsupervised until you are 100% sure the dog will not attack the cat under any circumstances. Since this is a very high expectation, and there are many cases of dogs attacking and killing the family cat after years of living together, you are wiser to keep them separated or keep the dog crated while you are not home.

Dominance training, shock collars, pinch collars etc. are outdated methods that are not nearly as effective as positive techniques. Animals learn best using positive reinforcement. Reward behaviors you like, ignore behaviors you don’t. This works best for all species (humans too)! Please contact your veterinarian to get a recommendation for a positive reinforcement dog trainer in your area.

Congratulations on your new addition! With the techniques described here, you can successfully introduce cats to dogs. With time and patience in the beginning, your household will have long-term harmony, and your pets will have a positive and long-lasting relationship.

With a patient and careful introduction, your pets will enjoy a positive and long-lasting relationship.

Can cats and dogs really get along? Of course they can! They can even be best friends! The first step is having a well-trained dog. Well-trained dogs are happier dogs who better understand their place in the home, and this gives you some control when it comes to introducing a new family member — a new cat, dog, or even a baby or roommate.

When introducing a cat and a dog, the steps described in the “How to Introduce Cats to Each Other” and “How to Introduce a Cat to a New Environment” handouts should still be followed. Take it slow, end on a positive note, and use high-value rewards when they are in the presence of one another.

Elsa and Hitch. Best friends.

Grant and Shadow spooning.

Of course bring the dog along on your stroller rides!

Hitch and his puppy.

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Using Food Puzzles with Your Cats

I'm excited to share this handout from a paper I co-authored for the Journal of Feline Medicine and Surgery on helping clients use food puzzles with their cats! The final version is available at the publisher's website. As a supplement to the article this handout was created and you can download and share with others!

Please feel free to distribute so more cat owners, veterinary professionals, behaviorists and shelter staff can learn about the importance of this type of enrichment.

FP handout with attribution (Brandon) (Copy)

Litter Box Facts

The saying “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure” definitely applies to litter boxes! Follow these simple rules to avoid many of the most common reasons for inappropriate elimination.

Litter Box Basics

You need to consider the number, size, and type of boxes.

How many? The basic rule is a minimum of one litter box location per cat, plus one. That means if you have two cats, you should have at least three litter box locations. Many cats prefer to urinate in one box and defecate in another. In a multi-level home, you should have at least one litter box on every floor, even if you only have one cat.

What size?

When it comes to litter boxes, larger is better. Even the so-called large litter boxes sold in pet supply stores are too small for most cats. The litter box should be 1-1/2 times the length of your cat’s body so that your cat has room to move around in the box and not have to step in soiled areas.

We recommend using large plastic storage bins instead of commercial litter boxes. You can cut an entrance on one side to provide easier access. The high sides of these bins help contain litter when the cat digs and covers. Some cats, especially older and arthritic cats, can’t or don’t squat to urinate, and may accidentally urinate or defecate over the side of a smaller box; these bins eliminate that problem.

Purchase clear or transparent bins, especially for multi-cat households. Cats are vulnerable when they are in the litter box, and it’s important that they can see what’s around them. You can bring us your own bin and we’ll cut and sand the entrance for you for a minimal charge. Drop off location is at Paws, Whiskers and Claws, in Marietta, Ga. If you decide to try cutting an opening on your own, you must use a Dremmel Tool with a heavy duty reinforced cutting disk.

Litter box types

Do not use hooded litter boxes exclusively! The hood traps odors inside and, even if scooped every day, it will quickly become offensive to your cat. The hood also makes it easier for a cat to be ambushed if there is any aggression between cats.

Note: A hooded litter box may be helpful if you have a cat that is shy about her toilet habits, but offer uncovered boxes as well.

Even though we recommend large storage bins as litter boxes, consider providing a large shallow container as an alternative. For example, you can get an inexpensive 30”x30”x2” plastic drip pan (intended for washing machines) at Home Depot. These are ideal for arthritic cats.
Electronic self-cleaning litter boxes may work for some cats, but we do not recommend them for a number of reasons.
Do not use litter box liners. Cats generally don’t like the feel or the noise of these bags, and they actually create more mess than not using them because cats’ nails snag and tear the liners. Scented litter deodorants may irritate your cat’s paws and the scent is offensive to delicate feline noses.

Litter Box Location

Placement of the litter boxes is extremely important. The litter box areas must be comfortable, convenient and safe.

Provide litter boxes on every floor of a multi-level home.
Do NOT place litter boxes in the same area as your cat’s food and water. You wouldn’t want to eat where you eliminate and neither does your cat!
In multi-cat households, do not place the boxes in “dead end” locations (such as closets) that offer only one way out. If a cat feels threatened by another cat, the dead-end location may create an opportunity for her to be ambushed, and she’ll avoid using the box. Place the litter boxes in open areas or next to a cat condo (see photo above) so your cat has the option to flee “up”. Avoid forcing the cat to use stairs or a cat door to reach the litter box because that can also lead to an ambush.
Do not place litter boxes in dark, loud, or odorous places, such as the laundry room or near the furnace!
Cats cannot see in the dark; there must be a light source nearby so that the cat can use the litter box at night. Nightlights work well.
To keep other pets or small children away from the litter box, you can place a baby gate across the room entrance. You can raise the bottom of the gate a few inches off the floor to allow the cat to crawl under or jump over.

If you have further questions or would like an evaluation of your litter box placement, please contact us.

Choosing the Litter Box Filler

Remember to offer UNscented litter. Your cat’s nose is far more sensitive than yours. What smells “fresh” to you can be overwhelmingly strong to your cat, and may lead to litter box avoidance!

Scoopable litter

Most cats prefer clumping scoopable litter over clay litter. Brands of scoopable litter differ in texture; you can experiment a bit to find the texture or brand that you and your cat like. (However, once you find a litter your cats like, avoid changing brands because sudden change can be disruptive to your cats.) You must scoop out clumped waste daily.

We recommend Dr. Elsey’s Cat Attract litter. It is a clumping, scoopable litter that tracks less that other clumping litters. Cats prefer the size and texture, as well as the natural herbal blend (the scent mimics the aroma of soil and plant materials). You can use Cat Attract Litter Additive to any brand of unscented litter. We also recommend Dr. Elsey’s Precious Cat Classic Unscented or Ultra Unscented litter.

A good alternative for geriatric cats is Dr. Elsey’s Senior litter. It has antibacterial properties which is especially helpful for seniors with chronic urinary tract infections. Dr. Elsey’s Kitten Attract is good for declawed cats as it is very soft.

If you notice that your cat doesn’t bother to cover the urine or feces in the box, chances are she doesn’t like the type of litter you are offering.

Clay litter

Clay litter box filler is recommended for kittens that might accidentally ingest the finer scoopable litter. You must empty, clean, and refill the box daily. We recommend the Publix brand unscented clay litter.

Alternate litter box fillers

Cats in the wild can chose from a wide variety of surfaces such as grass, pine straw, dirt, gravel, etc. You can provide options for your indoor cats too. While scoopable litter should be the filler in most boxes, you can offer alternate litter box filler in one or two boxes.

Some cats prefer using a puppy-training pad inside a regular litter box. The pads are available in any pet supply store. Cats may use them for urinating as well as defecating. Remove the soiled pad, wipe the box clean, and replace the pad whenever it is soiled. Puppy-training pads are a great option for cats that urinate excessively. Pads may also be preferred by declawed and arthritic cats.

Strange as it may seem, some cats prefer an empty litter box. They may not like the feel of anything under their feet except the smooth plastic box.

Avoid alternate litter box fillers that have a strong odor, such as cedar or citrus-scented litter or recycled newspaper pellets. The texture of these pellets is not preferred by most cats, remember the softer the better in most cases. This also applies to the pine pellets and crystal litters; they are often not preferred.

Litter Box Cleanliness

If you’re using clay litter, you must empty, clean, and refill the litter boxes daily. Don’t just scoop out the solid waste and stir up the wet litter; it may look better to you, but all you’ve done is spread the urine throughout the box soiling the entire box and making it offensive for your cat to step in.

If you’re using scoopable litter, scoop each litter box at least once daily. Add fresh litter as needed to replace the soiled litter that was removed.

Empty and thoroughly clean scoopable litter boxes at least every 1-2 months. Use soap and water and be sure to remove all traces of litter and soil, and then disinfect the box with a 10% bleach solution. Be sure to rinse the box thoroughly afterward to remove all traces of bleach! Be mindful of scented the cleaners you are using. Cats do not like the smell of citrus so use a mild soap such as lavender or honeysuckle, scents which are actually pleasing to cats.

Keep the area around the litter boxes clean. You can place the litter boxes on a plastic runner, a vinyl tablecloth, or a short-knapped bath mat. These can be cleaned easily by shaking them outside or laundering them.

You can place a tracking mat in front of the litter box. Be mindful of the texture that the mat provides. Many mats are spikey or made of fake grass-like textures. Many cats will avoid such mats and attempt to jump over them or just eliminate elsewhere. Nothing is foolproof. If you have cats be prepared to accept some level of litter tracking.

Replace litter boxes about every two years, or more frequently if the surfaces become deeply scratched or stained. Use a Sharpie to mark the underside of each box with the date you purchased to help you keep track.

Cleaning Soiled Areas

If your cat has urinated or defecated outside the litter box, you must clean the area to completely eliminate all traces of the stain. Soap and water is not enough. You may not notice an odor, but your cat’s delicate nose will, and that will encourage her to use the same spot again.

There are many odor-eliminator products on the market, but the enzyme cleaners tend to work the best. We recommend Magic Zymes, Urine Off or Veterinary Strength Outright Stain and Odor Remover. We have found these products to be quite effective when used as directed.

What If My Cat Starts Urinating or Defecating Outside the Litter Box?

There are many reasons why a cat may stop using the litter box, including:

Medical conditions,
Stress and inter-cat aggression,
Poor litter box logistics.

Remember that urinating or defecating outside the litter box is unusual; your cat is telling you that something is wrong!

The first step is to take the cat to your veterinarian! The most common reason for litter box problems is that the cat is trying to tell you that she’s ill or in pain. This may be a simple urinary tract infection or something more serious.

After medical reasons have been ruled out, you can start to consider the other possible causes. Read the handout “Coping with Inappropriate Elimination” for help in determining the cause of the problem and how to address it.

Download Handout PDF

Coping with Inappropriate Elimination

(Or undesirable elimination, as it is all appropriate to your cat!)

Cat owners often become understandably frustrated when their cat begins to urinate or defecate outside the litter box. Nearly 1 cat in 10 will have an inappropriate elimination problem in her lifetime.

Why isn’t my cat using the litter box?

There are many reasons why a cat may stop using the litter box, including:

Medical conditions,
Stress and inter-cat aggression,
Litter box logistics.

Remember that urinating or defecating outside the litter box is unusual; your cat is telling you that something is wrong!

What should I do if my cat starts urinating or defecating outside the litter box?

After medical reasons have been ruled out, you can start to consider the other possible causes.

Do not punish the cat or confine her to just one room. Some people think they can “re-train” the cat in that way, but it doesn’t work! Cats aren’t trained to use a litter box; they use it instinctively. Confining the cat to one room will increase her frustration and stress level, but it won’t solve the problem!

What medical reasons can cause litter box problems?

Your cat may have a urinary tract infection, urinary crystals, bladder stones, or external infections such as urethritis or vaginitis. It could even be pain caused by a seemingly unrelated problem such as an abscessed tooth or arthritis.

Why? If your cat feels pain or discomfort when she uses the litter box, she doesn’t understand that the pain is coming from her kidneys or broken tooth, or whatever the cause. She just knows that litter box=pain, so she’ll try to find another place to eliminate, hoping that will make the pain end. But urinating on the bedroom carpet doesn’t ease her pain either, so she tries another spot, and the cycle continues!

You may even need to change the look, feel, or location of the litter box after the medical problem is resolved to encourage your cat to use the litter box again.

Other medical problems that may be associated with inappropriate elimination:

Kidney Failure Constipation

Diabetes Mellitus Impacted Anal Glands

Hyperthyroidism Intestinal Parasites

High Blood Pressure Skin or Flea Allergies

Anxiety Disorders Cancer

Appropriate treatment of the underlying medical condition may end your cat’s inappropriate elimination. If not, it’s time to examine other possible causes.

Stress-related elimination problems

Yes, cats can get stressed, and they may show their distress by urinating or defecating outside the litter box.

Stress can come from changes in your household: moving, the birth of a child, the addition of another pet, etc. These stresses may cause not only litter box problems, but they may aggravate existing medical conditions.

When possible, introduce changes gradually, and allow the cat to explore new people and things at her own pace.

You can help your cat cope by providing a “safe room” for your cat – a place where she can go to escape the stress. The safe room must have food, water, litter boxes, a comfortable kitty bed, and some toys. Put a baby gate in the doorway to discourage unwanted visitors. Introduce the cat to the safe room, but you don’t need to confine her there; let her use it when she feels the need.

Cat condos and cat trees are important to stress management. A tall sturdy cat tree gives your cat a secure perch from which to view what’s going on, and it gives her a place to escape. This is particularly important if you have small children, dogs, or multiple cats. The height offers your cat safety and a feeling of control. It is especially comforting to them if they can view multiple rooms from a single vantage point.

Consider using Feliway, which is a synthetic product that mimics feline facial pheromones and helps a cat feel at ease. It is available in a spray as well as an electric diffuser.

We offer behavioral counseling and a variety of educational handouts that may help you make your cat more content and less stressed.

Aggression between cats

One cause of stress is aggression between cats in a multi-cat household. You can greatly reduce this aggression by providing plenty of litter boxes as well as multiple food and water dishes. It is important that the cats don’t have to compete for too few bowls and boxes! Place feeding stations and litter boxes throughout your home; don’t concentrate them in one area! Cats are at their most vulnerable when they are eliminating, and so it’s vital to make sure that they feel safe in the litter box and won’t be ambushed by other cats, the family dog, or a curious toddler!

Feliway (described above) can help with aggression issues. You can also call us to discuss other behavior modification options, including medication.

Remember that cat trees and cat condos are important to multi-cat households. They help cats establish a hierarchy, which is important to their group dynamic.

Litter box logistics

There are several factors to consider, including the number and size of the boxes, location, type, litter box filler, etc. Inappropriate elimination could be the result of having too few litter box locations, using the wrong size or type of box, placing the boxes in inappropriate locations, or using the wrong litter box filler.

Please read our Litter Box Facts handout for detailed information on maintaining your cats’ litter boxes.

Cleaning and managing soiled areas

Sometimes the best solution is to give the cat what she seems to be asking for: place a litter box in the area where she’s eliminating! If you don’t want to leave the litter box there permanently, we will advise you on how to gradually move the litter box into a more acceptable location after your cat uses that litter box consistently for several weeks.

There are several odor-eliminator products on the market, but the enzyme-based cleaners tend to work the best. The product that we recommend most frequently is Magic Zymes. We also suggest Veterinary Strength Outright Stain and Odor Remover and Urine Off.

You can also make the soiled area less attractive to your cat:

Place cat’s food or water at the site (after cleaning)

Provide alternative way to mark (scratching post or pad)
Aluminum foil
Scat mats
Potpourri on the site
Motion sensors with audible alarm
Catnip on the site
Double-sided tape
Upside-down contact paper or vinyl carpet runner (nub side up)
Citrus-based sprays (many cats dislike the smell of citrus)
SsssCAT motion sensor deterrents
Engage your cat in interactive play at the site or train your cat to do simple behaviors there to change their perception of that space.

Call us for additional ideas about deterrents!

If that doesn’t work…

Sometimes a cat will continue to soil an area that has been thoroughly cleaned.

Why? The cat apparently feels a need to mark that spot. Every time you remove the scent marking, your cat may be compelled to mark the area again.

When that happens, you can try a different approach. Instead of using enzyme cleaner, clean the area with plain water, then spray the area with Feliway. You won’t smell urine, but your cat may be satisfied that the area is still marked, and not need to mark it again. Use Feliway on the area; the Feliway encourages facial marking and reduces the chance that the cat will spray urine there again.

Spray Feliway on the area once daily, then gradually decrease and use as needed.

Note that the enzyme cleaner breaks down the pheromones in Feliway, making it ineffective, so don’t use enzyme cleaner on surfaces marked with Feliway.

The bottom line

Inappropriate elimination often has a medical cause.

There is always a reason; it is up to us to figure it out. What they are doing may be undesirable to you, the human, but to the cat it is instinct.

There are many things you can do to prevent behavioral litter box problems. It’s far easier to prevent these problems than to resolve them after they start.

Always remember that your cat’s relationship with the litter box is complex and emotional. It’s not just a feline toilet!

Download Handout PDF

Foraging Toys

Foraging toys are food dispensing containers that your cat manipulates in efforts to get food or treats to dispense. These types of toys give your indoor cat something to stalk and hunt, giving them a much needed outlet for their prey drive and hunting instincts. Most behaviorists agree that many behavior problems in cats stem from boredom, frustration and stress. A lack of mental stimulation can result in up to 30% loss of brain function over time in both animals and humans. Much like the need for humans to learn a new skill, do crossword puzzles, read etc. to keep our brains working; cats and dogs need similar challenges to alleviate senility, boredom, and mental dullness. The concept of foraging is designed to make your cat think and problem solve, and they get rewarded each time they figure out the puzzle.

Getting Started

Foraging can be a fun game and a way to give your cat treats; or if they are really good at it and are active foragers, it can be how you feed them their dry food. It is recommended that you start off with clear containers with a lot of holes so it is really easy and they barely have to bat at it to get food to dispense. We recommend using a plastic water bottle as a first toy. It is clear so your cat can see, hear, and smell the food rattling around inside. It is best to fill up the container; but not so full that the food does not move around freely; but DO NOT simply put 2 or 3 pieces of kibble in there because that is when foraging toys are the most difficult.

Once your cat has gotten the hang of foraging, move on to containers with fewer holes, objects that are opaque, objects that do not roll easily, or even cubes! It is important to continue to offer new and interesting objects to keep your cat from getting bored with them. If they continue to empty the same container for months and months, they may lose interest.

We have a variety of foraging toys available for purchase at Paws Whiskers and Claws, and you can try making some yourself. You are only limited by your imagination and creativity. It is also a great way to recycle your plastic household containers one additional time before they make it to the recycling bin! Another great foraging toy purchase is the Peek-a Prize Toy box. This is a finished wooden box with many holes cut into it like a giant piece of Swiss cheese. Fill the box with balls, toy mice and food; so that the toys become an obstacle that your cat must move in order to access the food.

You can easily make one of these foraging boxes yourself out of an old shoebox. Simply cut some holes in the side and top of the shoebox slightly larger than the toys you are putting inside. This is so that they can get the toys out too. Fill with a handful of food. It is important to tape the lid on so that your cat does not simply take the lid off and eat out of the box like a bowl. Some cats, especially kittens, will be motivated by the toys alone and forage for them without even needing food to motivate them. Cereal boxes can also work well for this type of toy.

Motivating Your Cat To Forage

Place the foraging toy on the floor and sprinkle a few pieces of the food or treats around the toy, so that your cat will eat those and then smell that there are more in the toy. Hopefully they will get the idea and bat the object around with their paws or nudge it with their nose.
Put something different in the foraging toy other than what is in your cats’ food bowl. There is no motivation to forage if they have a bowl of the same thing sitting a few feet away on the kitchen floor.
Show them how to forage. If your cat is just not getting the concept, push the toy around a bit with your hand, roll it, and show them that if they do this food falls out! Help them to learn. Be patient. Remember, they have not had this type of challenge before there is a chance it could take them a while to catch on.
Keep at it! Try all kinds of different treats and foods; sometimes it is all about finding the right motivator. Cats are great observational learners, so if you can get one or two of your cats to get the hang of it, the others will soon follow. When one kitty is having a ball and getting treat after treat it is bound to stimulate interest and make your other cats wonder, hey what are they eating over there?
If your cats are not motivated by food, this type of environmental enrichment will likely not be successful.

What should I put in my foraging toy?

We recommend offering foraging toys daily. We recommend using the Hill’s prescription Diet T/D (available at Paws Whiskers and Claws) or the Science Diet Oral Care (available at Petsmart). These are both dental diets that are high in fiber, and good for hairball control. T/D is a low calorie version of Oral Care. Using regular food allows you to be generous about filling the foraging toys. Oftentimes we find that many cats prefer the dental diets and it is a much healthier alternative to treats. You can also blend the dental food and a few treats such as Feline Greenies. This keeps it exciting; not all the kibble that falls out is the same.

A Challenge for your cat and easy for you

Keeping the humans motivated to continue filling these toys is another challenge. If your cats love to forage we suggest making this chore as easy on you as possible; you will be more likely to keep the toys filled if you do not need to do it daily. We recommend doing this by having a wide variety of foraging toys. Fill them up once a week and keep them in an airtight bin in your pantry, then simply throw a few on the floor before you leave for the day, or before you go to bed. This gives your cat hours of fun while you are not home or while you are sleeping. Offer foraging toys away from your bedroom so that it does not keep you awake. If your pet suffers from separation anxiety, providing foraging toys can help alleviate this behavior problem in both cats and dogs. It is also important to have a variety so that your cats do not get bored with them. New objects means new challenges; which means smarter more mentally challenged cats.

How do I keep my dog or toddler from foraging too?

If you have a canine family member or young child that may like to sample the contents of the feline foraging toy we suggest using a baby gate to keep dogs and small hands from being able to forage too! Baby gates are a great way to keep your dog from getting into your cats food and litter box as well. For some older children, filling the foraging toys can be a great household chore.

Foraging as a weight loss program

If we have recommended that you use foraging as a weight loss program we first encourage you to get your cats actively foraging using the dental diets. Once they have the hang of it we have some toys available here with smaller holes for the low calorie Science Diet kibble. Your cats must also eat low calorie canned food 2-3 times per day.
The idea is to create a lower carbohydrate diet, while still allowing your cat to free feed. Dry food has a lot more carbohydrates than canned food. They should fill up on the canned food at least twice a day and have the dry kibble in the foraging toys; so they essentially are still free feeding, but they are keeping active, rather than lying down in front of the food bowl to gorge.

In summary

Foraging toys are one of the best toys you can provide for your cat, ideally coupled with a few sessions of interactive play each day. It serves many purposes and provides hours of constant entertainment. Foraging would be a natural part of your cats’ daily activities if allowed outdoors. Since we encourage indoor only cats, or secure outdoor enclosures, foraging is as close as you can get to providing your indoor cat with something to hunt. Remember that if you do not use it you lose it. Foraging will keep your cat active and mentally challenged for a happier longer life.

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Environmental Enrichment For Indoor Cats

We advocate indoor only cats. This lifestyle keeps them healthier, safer and living longer lives. However, cats may get bored or frustrated being kept inside. Below are some suggestions for keeping them active, stimulated and happy. Remember that cats are very prey specific, so trying different varieties of toys is important to find just what your cat likes to hunt.

Alphabet Magnets

Place these on the lower half of the fridge, oven, dishwasher, or on a magnetic board for your cat to bat around. You can find these at most toy stores.

Birds and Bees

For visual entertainment attract birds or squirrels with strategic placement of bird and squirrel feeders outside windows and screened porches. For nighttime viewing, try leaving a porch light on to attract flying insects. This may help you sleep better if your cat is active at night.

Bringing the Outside In

As long as your cat is current on vaccinations and deworming, bring in tree branches, rocks, leaves, things from the outdoors to pique their senses. Try hiding treats around or under these items for extra fun, or fill a box with leaves and throw a handful of treats in for your cat to forage. Additionally, you may purchase live catnip or grass plants from most Petsmart locations. These plants provide instant gratification and cost about $5.00 each.

Cat Carrier

Try leaving your cat’s carrier out in the home all the time. Make it inviting by placing bedding and/or treats inside for your cat to enjoy. This will also desensitize your cat to the carrier making trips to the vet easier for both of you. Clicker training is a positive way to train your cat to willingly enter their cat carrier. Teaching this could save their life in case of an emergency!

Catnip Marinade

Place all soft fuzzy toys in container with catnip to “marinate”. You can do this as often as needed to refresh the scent. This can be financially helpful because you won’t have to buy new toys as often.

Chirping Fuzzy Mice and Birds

There are many versions of these motion activated toys. Some chirp like live mice, some move around and some have flashing lights.

Clicker Training

Clicker training can be used as both an enrichment tool and as a training aid to fix unwanted behaviors. Cats are incredibly intelligent and trainable we simply have to create that expectation! Clicker training can help control less desirable behaviors such as counter surfing or inappropriate scratching or teach them to run an agility course for fun and exercise! Cats can be trained to sit, come, hi-five, shake even walk on a leash and harness. Much like their canine counterparts, training your cat stimulates the brain, gives them a job to do and gives them a more enriched life. A good reference book is “Training Your Cat” by Dr. Kersti Seksel or “Naughty No More” by Marilyn Krieger. Karen Pryor is also the go to source for all thing clicker related!

Clicker training "tools".

Hitch Hi-fiving.

Drinking Fountain

There are several different water fountains for cats that simulate drinking from a stream or water faucet. The model we prefer is the Drinkwell Pet Fountain. It can be easily taken apart and cleaned, has charcoal filters that can be replaced as needed and you can purchase an optional reservoir which is great for multi-cat households or cats that require lots of fresh water. Retail price starts at approximately $49.99 and can be ordered directly from the manufacturer at www.vetventures.com or by calling 866-322-2530. We also like the stainless steel fountains as they are not porous, even easier to clean and dishwasher safe! Pioneer Pet makes some nice stainless fountains.

Feline Furniture

Cat Condos will give your cat a place of their own, increase vertical space in your home and create “safe zones” from dogs, children or other cats. Our favorite condos are from www.AngelicalCat.com, they carry a wide array of styles, sizes and colors. You may reach Angelical Cat by phone at 954-747-3629. Some other websites we recommend are www.TrendyCat.com, www.KittyPod.com and www.TheRefinedFeline.com. Scratching posts and horizontal cardboard scratching pads give your cat an appropriate surface to scratch. The “Cat’s Meow Scratching Post” is available for retail sale at Paws Whiskers & Claws, The Feline Hospital in Marietta, Ga. Cardboard scratchers are available at most pet retail outlets.

Height provides comfort to cats and a sense of security.

Cat furniture can also be a great feeding station away from dogs and toddlers.

Fish Tanks

Having a fish tank is an excellent way to keep your cat occupied, especially at night when you are trying to sleep. Obviously, you’ll want to make sure to have a secure lid to keep fish safe. Also, make sure you are prepared for the effort of caring for additional pets.

Foraging Toys

These are toys that must be manipulated for your cat to obtain a food reward. Unfortunately, there are not nearly as many styles of foraging toys commercially available for cats as there are for their canine counterparts. You can make your own foraging toys by using small plastic household containers and cutting out holes that are slightly larger than the size of the food/treats that you will put inside. Another homemade variation would be a shoebox with holes cut out about the size of a ping pong ball and then fill with treats and a few ping pong balls as an “obstacle”. Be sure to tape the lid on. There are a variety of foraging toys available at Paws Whiskers & Claws, The Feline Hospital. To shop for toys and to learn more about foraging visit www.FundamentallyFeline.com

Peaches foraging from long gear toy made by Fundamentally Feline.

Hunting

In addition to foraging, satisfy your cat’s prey drive, by hiding treats or food around the house, in places your cat frequents such as: on top of their scratching post, cat condos, window seats or anywhere you know they will seek it out or stumble upon it.

Interactive Toys

These are toys that allow you and you cat to play together and often provide great exercise for your cat. The Feline Flyer is a feather toy that mimics a bird and the Dragonfly is a toy on a wire creating erratic movement. A good old fashion piece of string works great too-just make sure to always put it away when playtime is over. If ingested, string or ribbon can cause an intestinal obstruction which is very dangerous. There are a myriad of interactive toys available, find the one that peeks your cat’s prey drive! Play with your cat daily!

Keepin’ It Fresh

While cats don’t like drastic changes to their routine or environment, subtle changes can be good. Moving the furniture around or changing a cat condo from one window to another can be stimulating and create interest instead of stress.

Light-up Laser Balls

Just like the chirping fuzzy mice and birds above, there are many different motion activated balls that provide hours of entertainment for cats by flashing when touched or rolled.

Motorized Toys

There are many motorized toys available on the market. The Panic Mouse has been previously featured in Catnip magazine as “Best Motorized Toy” of the year. It is “…an electronic mouse that randomly waves a wand and attached spider toy through the air for your cat to chase and grab, mimicking a human waving a wand toy. The wand moves in different directions and at different speeds, sometimes pausing. It is also height and speed adjustable.” The Panic Mouse as well as other great motorized toys can be ordered at www.PanicMouseInc.com or by calling 951-506-3643 and costs approximately $30.00. The Fling-a-ma-string, The Undercover Mouse, and many others can provide hours of automatic fun for your feline friend. Remember your cat should always be supervised during play-do not leave these toys turned on when you are not home.

Nature Videos/Music

Some cats enjoy watching television, especially if it’s geared for them. They’ll love the sounds and sights of nature videos or try leaving the television tuned to Animal Planet. There are also videos produced for cats that feature aquariums, birds and squirrels. You can purchase DVD’s designed exclusively for cats or try leaving classical music playing to soothe your cat when you are not home.

Nightlights

Cats cannot see in the dark, however cats can see well in about 1/8^th of the light required by a human. This is why cats are most active and hunt at dawn and dusk (called crepuscular). This lighting can be mimicked at home by placing nightlights by food, litter box or sleeping areas. This will benefit all cats, particularly those who are geriatric, and it may also decrease intercat aggression.

Old Standbys

Cats love investigating things like cardboard boxes, paper bags, newspaper tents and cardboard rolls from paper towels or toilet paper. You can also try putting toys or treats inside the cardboard rolls thus turning them into foraging toys.

Hitchinson playing in a brown paper bag, best cat toy ever, and it's free!

Outdoor Enclosures

Even indoor cats can enjoy the outdoors safely through screened in porches, screened in decks, window seats, chain link enclosures (www.HabitatHaven.com) or Kitty Walks (877-548-8905 or www.KittyWalkSystems.com). The most important thing is to ensure that the enclosure is secure, covered on all four sides and has a roof or ceiling so that cats can’t escape. The Purrfect Fence (www.PurrfectFence.com) does not have a roof but does offer a secure “Houdini-Proof" arch that prevents cats from being able to scale the fence. If you allow your cats outdoor time in an enclosure or on a leash and harness, make sure your cats are current on vaccines, flea control and are dewormed regularly.

Ping-Pong Balls

Try putting 2 or more ping-pong balls in a bathtub. Cats will love jumping in and batting them around. This can be a bit noisy, so if the bathtub is near your bedroom, make sure to take them out before you go to sleep. And put the stopper in the tub so the ball does not get stuck.

Strollin’

Have you ever considered taking your cats for walk? A cat stroller is the perfect way to do this! These strollers are 100% screened in with pet proof screening and often have many of the same features as an infant stroller such as: collapsibility for easy storage, cup holders, lightweight, etc. If you walk your dog take kitty with you!

Vertical Space

Similar to a free standing cat condo, vertical space allows your cat the comfort of navigating their space without having to touch the ground. Cats feel more secure when they are up high. The nice thing about vertical space verses a cat condo is that it does not take up a foot print on your floor. It is a series of runs, perches, and tall scratch poles that allow the cat to cruise from wall to wall and room to room, all with the ability to survey the home from a high vantage point! To learn more visit www.FundamentallyFeline.com

Water Fun

Place small wind up toys in a sink filled with water; also try any items that float like ping-pong balls, or a large bright marble so they have to “go fishing” for it. You can find wind up toys in the infant bath section of toy or department stores.

Download Handout PDF

Hand Out

Getting Started

Motivating Your Cat To Forage

What should I put in my foraging toy?

A Challenge for your cat and easy for you

How do I keep my dog or toddler from foraging too?

Foraging as a weight loss program

In summary

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